Thursday, January 16, 2014

How to Make Candied Rose Petals

Of all the darlings of the Parisian food world, one is eternally loved, a practically no-fail choice, especially for the romantics among us, and that is the rose.  Paris has a love affair with roses and rose essence; never too strong, always true to flavor, always an interesting and delicious dessert component, which I will explain more in tomorrow’s post.  Today, though, I want to give you a quick tutorial for an easy dessert component of a French and especially Parisian dessert, and that is candied rose petals.  True, the Parisians prefer to buy a rose-something-dessert rather than make it.  That’s why Pierre Hermé has an app for ordering his pastries.  But don’t be daunted by the idea of incorporating roses into your cuisine and especially your desserts.  Try just a few petals: it’s surprisingly easy to make and also easy to adapt using complete flowers for a wonderful garnish effect for a dessert platter.  Your supplies are simple: some granulated sugar, a few rose petals (spray-free please) and one egg white.  One egg white will coat dozens of petals; I prefer to make as many petals as I can use immediately, but you can also make these in summer and save them in an airtight tin for use in winter.

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You will do a better job if you have a pair of tweezers; a pastry brush is optional, and a spoon can be used to sprinkle the sugar, but I’d rather use my fingers.

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Lightly beat the egg white in a small bowl; about 10 seconds.  Hold a rose petal by the stem-end with the tweezers and drag the petal through the egg white, coating both sides.   Using the pastry brush to apply the egg white also works well, but it’s more work.  I happen to like a thick coat of sugar, so I prefer to drag the petal through the egg white rather then brush it on.  Shake off the excess egg white or drag the petal over the edge of the cup of egg whites; aim for a relatively even wash of egg white; then sprinkle the entire petal liberally with the sugar.  Coat the petal so that there is no egg white showing; you should only see sugar crystals. Try it once and see if you like it with more sugar or less.  I brought this particular sugar back from France with me this week, and I like that it’s coarse and a little crunchy, somewhere between our cane sugar and sanding sugar.

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Set the petals on a non-stick surface like a Silpat to dry.  Set them out in the sun on a warm dry day and they will be finished in an hour.  “Finished” means they are stiff and dry to the touch.  Try to avoid doing this on cold or damp winter days, or you may have problems with the egg white drying completely.  Some people use a warm oven, but that’s problematic as you don’t want to bake the petals, you just want them to dry.  The sun works best, and low humidity locations will do the work in an hour. You can select perfect petals and retain their original shape, say for placing whole on top of a cupcake, but for these today I am going to scissor them up into small pieces so I don’t care about their shape, what I see here is fine.

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“Finished” sugared rose petals retain their original shape and delicate flavor, and the sugar crystals only enhance their look and color.  I used pink and red petals today as those are the last blooms on my rose bushes.  But consider any color rose from your garden; oranges and pinks are great in combination….or lavender or yellow roses…

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Use your kitchen scissors or shears to slice the petals into fine slivers to top desserts..cupcakes, pancakes or whatever.  Also consider sugaring whole flowers for a beautiful garnish: roses or camellias work so well; especially here the white camellia; same process; I brushed just a bit of egg white on the tips of the petals and dipped the flowers upside-down into the sugar; pretty effect for a cake topper; I love a sugared white flower.  I could see one of these for a place setting for spring or Mother’s Day~

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Tomorrow I’m going to show you how to assemble a Parisian-style creme puff, topped with candied rose petals, of course.

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Stay tuned for the next post…great for a little Valentine’s Day treat or Easter or Mother’s Day….today I made them for my Sis’s birthday and she was thrilled; texting me that her office “LOVED” them in all caps and all eaten.

Give candied flowers a try next time you have some roses, violets or other edible flowers on hand, you will not be disappointed and trust  me, it’s easy!

Monday, December 30, 2013

Good Monday Morning

Paris is so far north, the first light on these shortest days of the year doesn’t arrive until after 8am, and the sun rose on the Eiffel Tower about 9am.  I love to watch the sunrise in Laguna, how the light changes, on the clouds, on the horizon.  What a treat to have the time to see it unfold from Trocadero this morning.  Just before 9am the air traffic really picks up, and here you can also see the airplane trails criss-crossing the sky~

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In addition to some running around, errands and shopping, I’ve also had some good quiet time to write. This visit is much less rushed and stressful than others, because I’ve limited my agenda of what must get done, and now that everything is crossed off the list I can relax for two days before we head back to Beaune.

More from Paris later today; I wanted to show you the sun as it rose this beautiful day.

Wishing you a lovely Monday~

Sunday, December 29, 2013

A little Sunday Music in Paris

If you follow my blog you know I have a weakness for music in Paris on a Sunday afternoon.  You are never too old or too young to play or enjoy street music in the City of Light.  Though it might be a little cold for the musicians in late December~

and a few minutes later, near Notre Dame~

Wishing you all a lovely Sunday, wherever you are~

Saturday, December 28, 2013

Bonjour de Paris

Technology sure has changed the way we travel and chronicle.  Years ago I never had a camera in Paris.  Or if I did, it was a disposable one.  Over the last few years I have been devoted to my Canon Rebel.  But today, you don’t see many Rebels running around Paris.  We are all using our phones and iPads.  I have my Canon in my bag, but I admit it’s often just so much easier to use the camera phone, it’s much more clandestine, say for taking photos of someone in the thrift store or photos in the grocery store (where one is accosted and immediately reprimanded if snapping pics on a DLSR).  Even at the flea yesterday, sad to say, all images are on the camera.  Problem is, while I usually just email the pics to myself and pull them from email, for some reason that is not working.  My emails with the images I wanted to use for blogging are lost somewhere in cyberspace, for now.

But I promise you, I am in Paris. I have been to Beaune and back in the meantime, hosting a few guests and cleaning house.  And polishing copper for one full day, which sounds great but since the copper was used pretty heavily it now needs to all be cleaned again.  After New Year’s Eve it’s back to Beaune for one more week, hopefully more relaxing.

But I’m feeling a little guilty for not blogging, so here are some of the images that I have taken on the Canon.  I spent two days taking final shots for Reve, which is my #1 priority for 2014.  It feels great to have the last images I need.  The cover will change to something like this.  IMG_2306

I can’t get enough of the Eiffel Tower, and while the trip last spring was a mad dash across all parts of the city, this trip is a little more relaxed and I have been photographing her daily from every angle.

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I also took more shots in the Louvre, and spent more time in the Napoleon III apartments.  What, you haven’t been?  You must go next time.  This is just the entry.

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These are some of the largest chandeliers you have ever seen.  Major, serious, massive chandeliers.

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The Grand Salon has five chandeliers, one in the center that looks to be 10+ feet wide, and four other smaller ones, in each corner of the room.  And then there are the sconces you see on the wall here.  Those are as big as many small chandeliers.  The lights are not on in the center fixture; I’d love to see it lit. 

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The dining room seats 46 if I counted right, with beautiful leather tufted chairs and one long white linen cloth to cover the table.  This room has three magnificent chandeliers.

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This morning I am off to the Marche Biologique or Organic Market on Boulevard Raspail, then to the Bastille Market.  Then to Notre Dame for mass and a full day of cruising Paris for anything I find that is interesting.  And if I can, I will find a tether for my phone.  Yesterday I was at the flea and my favorite market in the 16th on Avenue President Wilson.  All on the phone.  But be patient, I’ll figure a way to show them to you.  Meanwhile enjoy the little glimpse of the Tour Eiffel and the Louvre.

Bon Dimanche a tous~

Sunday, December 15, 2013

Tomorrow in Paris

All of my recent styling work has kept me away from blogging.  In fact, it’s also kept me away from packing for my trip to France.  It’s true, I think nothing more of going to France than going to San Francisco, but now it’s crunch time.  Tomorrow early morning I leave for Paris, and I started to pack this evening, when I got home from LA at 9pm.  I have done great work this holiday season; I am pleased, and more importantly, my clients have been perfectly pleased.  It’s the stuff you can not buy, but I can make for your home.  If you can buy it at Trader Joe’s or other stores, you can’t have it; I will make something custom for you, like this~

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I have a little more than three weeks on this trip; I will be heading from Roissy to Champagne, to taste and stock up on some holiday cheer at my favorite organic Champagne vintner. Then to Beaune, where later this week we will welcome three chefs from San Diego for a brief tour, but in a few days we will cover a lot of ground.  On Saturday morning I will take them on a tour of the Beaune market, which many of you know is my favorite market in the entire world.  For New Year, R and I will spend five days in Paris, taking a few more final shots for Reve, going to the Louvre, eating our way across town, visiting my favorite markets and seeing all the Christmas Chocolates that are on offer.  I really want to make a trip to Brittany to see my dear friends Guy and Jacqueline, maybe in January.  And watching the fireworks shoot off the Eiffel Tower, LIVE on New Year’s Eve…that’s what I’m talking about….oh yeah!

 

Final basket orders ship tomorrow; follow me here for some blog posts, and also on Instagram and Facebook for some items that I am finding in France that you just might need….just look for French Basketeer on either.

 

It will be particularly fantastic trip. I can not wait!!

Monday, December 9, 2013

Alice Waters & Kermit Lynch at The Chino Farm

In the whole wide world there are few places where the best culinary talent meets the best food & drink as beautifully and seemingly effortlessly as at an event at The Chino Farm in Rancho Santa Fe, California.  If you have yet to discover this farm and its produce, you are in for a treat.  And for those who know it, you understand why this farm has such a loyal following.  Saturday afternoon we were at the Farm for the double signing of Alice Waters’ Simple Food II and Kermit Lynch’s 25th anniversary edition of Adventures on the Wine Route.  Despite the cool weather and some rain, which normally brings Southern California to a stop, the event was hopping, with crowds turning out by the hundreds for the chance to meet these two titans of food and wine.  While everyone waited for their few moments with Alice and Kermit, we were served slices of some of the best pizza ever, prepared in a calm fashion, one by one and with care.

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Every ingredient was fresh, with the produce toppings coming from Chino Farm.  Did I mention awesome?

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The oven was managed by owner John Gonzales of Bottaro Pizza.  After about three minutes in the 700 degree wood-fired oven, the pizzas emerged, perfectly steaming hot~

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There was a fantastic variety of pizza toppings, in delicious combinations.  Near, topped with shredded butternut squash and mozzarella~

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The slices left the table just as quickly as they came out of the oven, and you had to be fast to get a piece.  It was a marvellous little dance of nimble hands…..this is the two finger slide~

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and then there is the full grab~

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These two little ones patiently waited their turn.

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My Mom came with us, and she loved the pizzas so much she camped out at the end of the production line and sampled just about every kind of pizza that came out of the oven; though she eats Chino produce each week, this was her first visit to the Farm, and she absolutely loved it.

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This was perfect food for a cold Saturday morning~

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The hot pizza kept everyone warm while they waited in line for books to be signed.  Here is Kermit Lynch with my friend, blogger and author Bonnie Manion of Vintage Garden Gal.  Kermit reminded me of the French market vendors, never rushed, full of enthusiasm and advice, not to mention French-style hand gesturing; no one minded waiting for the book to be signed; this was no mechanical signing, each book was signed with good conversation and a personal connection. 

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And right after the book was signed, there was a tasting of Kermit’s Côtes du Rhône, just what I wanted to chase the morning chill away!

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Glass of wine in hand, I joined the line to have Alice sign my book.  And a beautiful book it is~

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The line wasn’t fast, but that was probably because there were so many copies to sign.  Many of us bought multiples.

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And a few brought older books to sneak in for an autograph.  Weren’t officially supposed to do that, but it’s because Alice has so many devotees.

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One thing you you saw were plenty of smiles.  Despite the rain, everyone was having a grand time under the canopies which had been set up; lots of smiles, lots of laughter, and lots of conversation.  Young and old, having a great time.

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Most everyone came prepared for the rain, turned out in Wellies and suede boots, with Rufus the service dog.

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Alice too was all smiles, greeting each of us when it came our turn~

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There were some pre-signed copies on hand, but there is nothing as inspiring as having a personally-addressed book by Alice Waters in your kitchen~

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Books in hand, I headed back to the stand to fill my basket for the week, starting with some greens~

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So good.  So perfect.  So inspiring…

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* * * * *

After a busy week of holiday styling projects I decided to make Sunday truly a day off, and spent it cooking and browsing my two new books.  Making a trip to the basement, I looked for a bottle of something good, something fitting, for us to have with lunch.  Several years ago I took my two teenage nephews on a tour of France, including wine tasting in Chassagne-Montrachet.  Before we left the cave in Chassagne, Dennis had labelled each bottle with his tasting notes and the buyer.  We hand-carried these bottles home with us; this was one of mine, with Dennis’ note “Best Red.”

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Best red indeed; it’s a bottle from one of my favorite Burgundian vintners, Gros Frere et Soeur, Clos Vougeot Musigni, Grand Cru 2007.  Most people fall in love with this etiquette or label.  Just wait until you taste the wine~

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What better way to spend a Sunday afternoon than with this bottle and this book?

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This will go in the library in Beaune, a new part of the wine reading for our guests.  Kermit’s French office is also in Beaune, and a short walk from the house.   I loved chatting with him, and appreciate his inscription~

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After reading the introduction, I went straight to this chapter.  Oh my.

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“Good red Burgundy is the most captivating wine in the world.”

* * *

“California Pinot Noir is to Burgundy what the Empire State Building is to the Notre-Dame.”

-Kermit Lynch, Adventures on the Wine Route

Amen.  Needless to say, I can’t wait to read the rest of this book, which I will do soon in Beaune.  Love this book; as timeless and true today as it was 25 years ago.  A must-read for anyone interested in French wine.

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And then it was time for a grand Sunday lunch and Alice’s book.  As with Simple Food, Simple Food II is clearly and carefully laid out and illustrated.

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OK it’s confession time.  I have never eaten at Chez Panisse, though I have driven and walked by it on Shattuck in Berkeley a hundred times.  It’s on my bucket list to dine there, perhaps for a big birthday or something one of these years.  And it wasn’t until I bought Alice’s 40 Years of Chez Panisse at her last Chino Farm event and then bought Simple Food that I really became familiar with her books and the depth and breadth of her knowledge.  As I begin to read Simple Food II I have the same feeling, of familiarity with some of her concepts.  Of course I would grow various herbs, right outside my kitchen door; of course we would finish dinner with a tisane from the same herb bed; of course we would eat what was local and in season; these are fundamental concepts in France, and in my own cooking.   But from there, Alice takes us on a tour of the garden with the title “Flavor as Inspiration” and presents so many new and interesting recipes.  The second section of the book is “Seed to Seed,”  an additional sixty pages chock full of Alice’s insight into growing your own best garden.   From what I consider a French base, Alice brings in our varied California produce and takes food and its flavors absolutely over the top, without making it too difficult for the average person wanting to eat better, locally and seasonally.  I love having her books on hand as a reference and an inspiration.  I love each section of Simple Food II, for example, the Citrus and Lemons.  What a great way for me to learn more about what I am eating, and what to look for.  Simple Food is the book I always recommend when asked “what one cookbook should I buy?”  Alice presents a wonderful blend of French sensibility and good taste.   

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Love this book and can’t wait to explore it through the coming seasons.

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For lunch yesterday we had Alice-inspired lamb lollipops just the way my family loves them: broiled with a Dijon mustard-garlic-herb coating and served with a Chino Farm green salad with chives from the garden.  I infused the drippings with a few blackberries for a little extra color and flavor.  My family pronounced them delicious, and loved the little touch of berry.

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And I found inspiration for dessert also from Alice, in her Blackberry Soufflé.   

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Here it is ready to go in the oven~

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I usually use a Julia Child recipe, but never tried it with blackberries; I can count on Alice Waters to expand my food horizons.  I think my oven is a little hot, so next time I’ll make an adjustment.  A little more brown than I’d like for that reason, but it was delicious and pretty.  I look at this and I see a special summer dessert for the girlfriends, with a glass of Champagne.

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Love these two books and can’t wait to spend more time reading them.  Thank you to Alice Waters and Kermit Lynch for writing these beautiful books, and to The Chino Farm for bringing these events together.  You are nothing short of amazing!  See you at the next event~