JC v JR

I read an article today that Julie and Julia is coming out in Paris and that the French aren't quite sure what to make of her, or the film. Well, certainly Julie's meltdowns will be completely unamusing to the French. That aside, the French have a wonderful pantheon of Chefs who have impacted (French) cooking. I guess we have a few good cooks for the everyday, like Giada or Emeril. The French have more Super-Chefs than we do though: JR or Alain come to mind.

One afternoon on the trip, we went on a drive on the north side of Beaune, to Clos de Vougeot and Nuits St. Georges etc. When we got back later in the afternoon, the boys wanted to rest after their wine tasting, R was working, and I got busy cooking. I made a lovely quiche lorraine, Julia's recipe; it made a fabulous snack! I included a shot here of the bacon bits (lardons) which I used; even the thick bacon from Stater Brothers here does not have the same taste or cut up the same....R had chilled a nice bottle of Domaine Gros rose, which was perfect as it was a hot day and hotter yet in the kitchen.

Finally I got busy on the main event, which was JR's boeuf bourguignon made in the new cocotte I got at Dehillerin. Julia's boeuf recipe is obviously made for the American crowd, calling for "stew meat" and "a bottle of red wine". She has a very straightforward preparation, which is over-simplified if you look at JR's. His is slightly different than hers, but is much more specific and more refined; the red wine is reduced by half, and rather than calling for just "stew meat" he specifies the exact cut, which I found at Casino since the boucherie was closed that day. More on French beef cuts later. We had the boeuf for a snack in the evening, I think it was around 9m; sorry the pic doesn't look that great; ithe meat was super tender and it was delicious!

9/11

Today is the most depressing day of the year for me. I'll just be honest. I was at the gym this morning and people were asking each other "where were you on 9/11?" At the time I was living in Jersey City, right across the Hudson from the World Trade Center. Let me tell you, if anything like 9/11 ever happened in Los Angeles, people would be devastated. It's too remote for people here; it's like just watching it on TV. Try being there; it was wrenching.

I will post photos tomorrow of that day. I was walking Napoleon out to the pier but decided for some reason to turn back. A few minutes after 9am, we heard the second plane hit; the first was while we were in the elevator. It was so loud, it was like the building down the street had been hit. The dog went nuts. I went down to the gym a short time later, and the construction workers from the building down the street were streaming towards their cars going home. I looked up and saw the towers, in amazement....

For the next few hours, I stood on the waterfront with Napoleon, watching the towers. We NEVER expected them to fall. I have clear memories in my mind of the people jumping; twisting, turning, falling. It's a LONG way down from the upper floors. It was so terribly tragic....

Signing off now, back to watching the TV.

Cooking supplies in Paris

Every trip to Paris for me includes a stop at Dehillerin. I have read a lot of reviews that say they are snobby and what not. Rubbish! There is a wonderful continuity here, and you can find anything and know it is authentic. It's not a finished store so expect a little dust. I made two trips here on this visit, one with the boys and one with R. On the second visit I dared to snap the photo of Julia above the checkout. Is there any better endorsement?? It was tough to read the handwritten inscription, "to my friends at Dehillerin"? in any case this is an authentic stop; I stock up while I am there. My "big" purchase this trip was a Staub cocotte, which will stay in Beaune, and was a fraction of the cost in the U.S. But after Julie and Julia boeuf bourgignon was on my list....

The basket shot is from my favorite bake supply in Paris; Mora. We got lots of cool little items there too!

Paris in August

I forgot just how quiet Paris is in August. Many (most?) of the stores seemed to be closed for the summer holiday, in most cases from around August 2nd until August 24th. That included several restaurants on my list, my favorite home store (so no scented candles this trip), two chocolatiers, and Deyrolle, which is the "world's best" taxidermy store. It was the one store Dennis really wanted to see, but we spent a little time in front looking longingly at the items in the window....not sure I would put the pig or rabbit in my house, but the canary was adorable, though dear at 350 Euros....

Still, there were a few uniquely Parisian sights to see; this florist stood out with the profusion of petals and flowers on the street, in contrast to everyone else. The city workers were also taking advantage of the month by filling a few potholes on Rue de Bac. I loved that they were carrying the macadam in little wooden buckets!

Blogging backwards

I saw my friend Priscilla yesterday, and she reminded me of the last date I had blogged. WHERE are the photos of the trip? Well, I guess I've been a little busy since I got back....another story.

So I am going to go through the trip with you. Here is the first night in Paris, the boys were incredibly tired. They did not inherit my travel genes I guess. We went by le Grand Colbert, which R and I adore, but passed that and went on to the Brasserie du Louvre. The portions were French, not American, but no matter, since the boys were jet lagged (see photo).

While they slept in their plates, I enjoyed a wonderful salmon plate.

Afterwards, we went to Cafe Marly, my old haunt where I would spend 2 hours with a single espresso. We had a series of desserts, and a lovely mocha, see photo. I hate to reveal the theme ahead of time, but it cost me $75 for coffee and dessert at Marly, but then it was $80 for food in O'Hare before we even got going!

Countdown

Well, our flight is leaving in oh, about 10 hours, and here I am sitting at my sister's computer (since my internet has been down the last 2 days) with a glass of wine. I have not packed yet, but I did weed through the boys' suitcases and remove a few items (like tatty tennis shoes with holes) and added a few things (like a real cotton long sleeved shirt). The boys got their hair cut, but you could've fooled me, it still looks kind of long. Anyway, we are getting ready to go off on our adventure!

Every other aspect of my life has been taken care of this week: all orders filled, all correspondence mailed; Napoleon went to the kennel today for at least a few days, until someone in my family decides to liberate him. R is already in France, and as of today is eating take-out jambon persile and making lists of what I will cook when I get there. I also started my own list, in my little journal book, of what I will cook in Burgundy. Are coquille St. Jacques in season, I asked him? I am bringing my JR recipe for Boeuf Bourgignon. R and I agreed first off on moules frites served in the soupiere.

I have added two Calvados tastings and tours to the list, yesterday, and also a stop at the Atelier du Cuivre in Villedieu les Poeles. I have been browsing the sites of two cookware and bakeware establishments in Paris and making some preliminary choices. It's going to take me weeks to post on all of this!

In the buzz of the last few days, I wasn't able to post on Sunday; I sold a Moroccan basket to an A-list actress; that's the gist of it. She was perfectly lovely; thereafter, I told anyone who picked up that basket that "so and so" bought the same one earlier today, and they snapped it up.

Signing off, with fingers crossed for a trip with the teen boys!!! We fly through Chicago. I get on the plane there, go to sleep and wake up in Paris....ahhhhhh

Julie and Julia

Passport: check. Camera for the boys: check. Julie and Julia: check.

I don't know if it was intentional or not, but I got annoyed at Julie around the time she pronouced boeuf as boof for the 17th time. As the French say: Aiie!! I would have rather seen a full movie about Julia & Paul Child with little or no juxtaposition of Julie & Eric. I adored the scenes of post-war Paris; why did we have to go back to Queens? Instead I had to watch Julie having a series of meltdowns in the kitchen with a little drama at the office thrown in, after coming up with the blog idea as a way to keep up with her overachieving and monetizing girlfriends. And Eric could not taste the food with the elegance of Paul & Julia, he always seemed to be stuffing it in his face and instantly commenting on it while still chewing the first bite. This was a total contrast to the opening scene, with Julia and Paul savoring sole a la meuniere filet'd a table.

A group of us went to see the movie, and we all had different comments. My niece thought the scene about the living Julia Child commenting on Julie's blog was one of a few unresolved ideas. My Mom said now she understood why I use so many pots and why I make such a mess of the kitchen that she usually gets to clean up; I dare say she is happy I have not been motivated to slice up 100 onions at one time. Me, well, in addition to the comments above, I am going to make boeuf Bourguignon tomorrow night for dinner, and will make a point to find a few fresh sole in Burgundy on the trip. In the U.S. we get sole already filet'd and we cook it. In France you get whole sole, cooked in butter and filet'd by your waiter at the table (a table). But in many restaurants, if you want to show your prowess, you tell the waiter that you will filet it yourself. This is a skill I will pass along to the boys, if the fish is in season. If I can find it at la poissonerie in Burgundy I will cook it at home.

The chicken, potatoes and asperges in the photo were cooked in Burgundy two years ago and all according to Julia's recipes; it seemed better than posting a movie pic or cover shot of MtAoFC. I seem to remember R saying it looked so good we had to have a photo...Bon Appetit!